Emiliano “Ruben” Martinez persisted despite an absent audience at Asadero for months. He trusted that his premium-steak tacos, seasoned with a distinct charcoal aroma, would resonate with Los Angeles’s diverse palate. His journey from Mírate’s opening chef to a street vendor offering $9 artisan tacos had its challenges. The street experience taught him that even a $5 or $6 taco faced resistance.
With patience, Asadero now attracts thousands to a Hollywood Pavilions parking lot. Customers are willing to wait up to three hours to enjoy grilled Wagyu, USDA Prime, or Angus tacos, alongside pork al pastor, plancha-seared pollo, and gooey chile relleno options. Asadero joins the ranks of renowned LA taquerias like Sonoratown and Tacos Los Cholos, as well as newer entities such as Tacos Royale, that specialize in flame-grilled meats.
“Culture-wise, we always seek that cheap taco stand to go eat, but you have 32 regions in Mexico and everyone cooks different,” Martinez noted. “Even in my neighborhood where I grew up, there were different kinds of tacos.”
Martinez’s signature item, the four-ounce gaonera rib-eye steak, cooks over mesquite charcoal. Thicker skirt steaks undergo a similar fiery treatment before being diced for the arrachera tacos. Crispy beef trimmings, priced at $1, reduce waste effectively. All of Asadero’s beef receives a simple Sonora-style salt seasoning to highlight the meat’s flavor. Options like al pastor get a multi-day house tepache marinade, served on locally made flour or blue corn tortillas.
Martinez’s background, influenced by family farms in Vizcaíno and La Paz, interacts with his cooking experience in Las Vegas’s high-volume kitchens. His time in restaurants like T-Bones Chophouse, Caesar’s Palace, and Palazzo added depth to his understanding of steak preparation and kitchen efficiency. A system orchestrating multiple grills, trompo, and plancha ensures that every aspect of taco preparation is precise and ordered.
House-made salsas accompany the tacos: smoky tatemada complements the al pastor, while a sesame-rich macha pairs well with the beefier cuts. A bright salsa verde offers a balance against the steaks’ fattiness. Despite his love for psychology, Martinez fell for the culinary industry’s fast-paced nature during his schooling, which led to a deep-rooted career shift in 2011.
After moving to Los Angeles in 2016, he gained experience at popular establishments like the Cheesecake Factory, Bottega Louie, and more. Here, street food inspired his culinary creations. Starting with a proof-of-concept stall in Sylmar, he later shifted Asadero to Hollywood when the customer base increased.
Long-time customer Luke Skywalker appreciates Asadero’s consistency and quality. Regular repeat customers helped sustain the business in its infancy. Martinez’s mention on the LA Food Podcast and the Infatuation expanded his reach, increasing demand exponentially. From managing 100 customers in an eight-hour shift to handling 1,000 in four, Martinez swiftly adapted by applying strategies gleaned from managing high-volume Las Vegas venues.
Customer Sean Mann, acknowledging Asadero’s growth from his early patronage, is thrilled about the success, attributing it to the love ingrained in its food preparation. Despite facing some criticism, especially about tortilla durability, Martinez addressed concerns by sourcing them from Boyle Heights’s Kernel of Truth Organics.
Managing cost challenges remains crucial for Martinez, who noted that commodity prices, like flank steak shifting from $7 to $11 a pound, impact pricing decisions. He views cultural shifts in the culinary world as opportunities for heightened recognition of Mexican cuisine’s significance.
As demand soared, Martinez expanded his team to meet increased catering needs. Looking forward, he proposes expanding with a food truck and hopes to open a bricks-and-mortar restaurant someday. Until then, Hollywood’s streets feature Asadero’s black kettle grills and a steady line of eager patrons.
Asadero operates at 723 Vine St., Los Angeles, open Thursday through Sunday from 6 to 11:30 p.m.