Indus Progressive Indian, located on the North Shore, is an acclaimed restaurant offering Midwestern-influenced cuisine while honoring North Indian family recipes. Known for its inventive dishes such as smoky masala beef brisket and fiery pork belly vindaloo, Indus is owned by Sukhu and Ajit Kalra. Their downtown Highland Park restaurant opened in 2024, following the success of their initial venture, Bhoomi, a casual Indian food stall in the Loop.
In 2025, Indus won the Readers’ Choice Award for Suburban Restaurant of the Year. The Kalras aimed to pay homage to the ancient Indus Valley civilization, a historic hub for spice blending, by merging the food cultures of modern-day India and the U.S., countries they have lived in as immigrants.
Chicago palates equate cultural and religious beliefs with a degree of meat consumption. To navigate these preferences, the Kalras have relied on culinary expertise. A consulting chef refined their recipes, while Executive Chef Vetri Selvaraj, formerly at Ettan in Palo Alto, crafted them into exquisite dishes at Indus.
“A lot of India, especially the Hindu population, almost never eats beef,” said Ajit Kalra, who’s from New Delhi.
Ajit and Sukhu Kalra created a dry rub using kasuri methi and a chutney with a house-made barbecue sauce, infusing Indian flavors with fresh tomatoes and fried shallots in butter. Indus uses a Gurnee-made Smoke Daddy smoker for meat and vegetarian dishes alike. The masala brisket, smoked for 14 to 18 hours, and served with barbecue chutney and roasted potato wedges, has been a top seller.
Traditional Indian dishes like Mamma’s chole are served at Indus. The chickpeas are infused with masala, onions, tomatoes, and fresh tamarind pulp, garnished with slivered onions and sliced jalapeños. Fried poori bread accompanies, made from whole wheat flour and fried until it balloons into crispy orbs. This dish remains a family favorite, adapted from Sukhu Kalra’s mother.
Pork belly vindaloo at Indus is a standout. It showcases a tangy, spicy sauce made in the traditional Goan style, fermenting chiles with vinegar and finished with port wine. While the dish’s spice-forward nature limits its appeal, it reflects the Kalras’ mission to make Indian cuisine accessible with depth of flavor over mere heat.
The menu includes options like jeera bhaat, fragrant garlic naan, and mango lassi to balance spicier dishes. The kurkuri bhindi transforms okra into a crispy finger-food snack, while the smoky daal Indus, cooked with ghee, pairs well with butter naan.
The dessert offerings touch on global influences, with a Valrhona dark chocolate torte featuring blood orange granita, inspired by flourless chocolate cake. The robust masala chai offers a savory experience, while the kokum mezcal cocktail balances tangy fruit, liqueur, and syrup.
Most of Indus’s staff, including the dedicated Nicol Cervantes, who began as a teenager, have been with the restaurant since its opening. The restaurant claims fine dining aspirations, suggesting potential updates to its interior design, currently graced with personal touches.
The choice of Highland Park as a location holds meaning for the Kalras. Experiencing the traumatic July Fourth shooting there in 2022, they responded by cooking for their community, offering meals as comfort. Despite economic challenges and evolving dining habits, they view their investment in the neighborhood as an opportunity to make a meaningful impact.
With the Bhoomi stall closed, plans exist for a new Loop location. Indus remains a community hub, fostering connection through their culinary heritage.
Indus Progressive Indian
617 Central Ave., Highland Park
312-282-8064
eatindus.com
Open: Tuesday to Thursday 4:30 until 8:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday until 9:30 p.m., Sunday 4 until 8 p.m., closed Monday
Prices: $36 (masala brisket), $15 (pork belly vindaloo), $22 (Mamma’s chole poori), $14 (kurkuri bhindi), $9 (Bhoomi lamb slider), $5 (rice), $12 (Valrhona torte), $7 (mango lassi), $13 (kokum mezcal cocktail)
Accessibility: Wheelchair accessible with restrooms on single level
Tribune rating: Excellent, three stars