During a visit to Maputo, Mozambique, I toured the city with my colleague, Vincent Acovino. We were reporting on U.S. funding changes for AIDS initiatives in Africa. In our free time, Vinny noticed a unique charm in several concrete apartment blocks and government buildings.

We decided to explore further and discovered the architectural works of Amâncio ‘Pancho’ Guedes, a Portuguese-born architect known for his work in the 1950s and ’60s. His designs include notable structures like the Prédio Abreu, Santos e Rocha, The Smiling Lion apartment block, and the Lemon Squeezer church. One particularly striking feature was a mural of a dragon in The Dragon House’s stairwell, crafted in black and white stone.

Guedes created more than 500 buildings in Maputo, including churches and bakeries. Describing his architecture can be challenging due to its combination of robust materials and playful elements. His style, known as ‘Eclectic Modernist,’ merges sculptural aesthetics with practical designs and local influences.

Maputo is evolving, and Guedes’ creations may not all withstand the test of time. Nevertheless, experiencing the city where his influence is still visible offered a memorable adventure. Discovering his work while traveling in a tuk-tuk was both enjoyable and enlightening.