Spending six months investigating raw milk wasn’t something I anticipated, but it became an important endeavor. Early in June, ProPublica published my detailed report that prominently featured Mark McAfee, the owner of the largest raw-milk dairy in the United States.
This story emerged after extensive research on the Trump administration’s influence on federal health agencies. Conversations with multiple civil servants revealed a pervasive climate of fear and political interference in scientific matters. Raw milk exemplified this issue. Health experts broadly agree that raw milk offers no clear nutritional advantages over pasteurized milk and poses a dramatically higher risk of foodborne illnesses.
“I’m begging you to say: ‘This is not anti-science, this is extremely pro-science. … It’s using science that is not conveniently accepted yet.”– Mark McAfee on the claimed benefits of raw milk
Under Health Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr., federal attitudes were reportedly shifting to favor raw milk. Kennedy, a raw milk advocate, showcased this by celebrating a federal health report with raw milk shooters at the White House. McAfee, with decades of advocating for raw dairy, sees raw milk reaching mainstream popularity. Over 10 million Americans now consume it, with national sales up 65% from 2023 to 2024. McAfee’s farm generates around $30 million annually, despite being linked to numerous recalls and illness outbreaks.
I was perplexed by raw milk’s growing popularity despite frequent illness outbreaks. Interviews with McAfee provided insights. He emphasized consumer testimonials about the positive health impacts of raw milk as alternative evidence against scientific consensus. However, exhaustive scientific reviews have consistently failed to confirm these claimed benefits, maintaining that raw milk poses significant health risks.
McAfee recounted the history of outbreaks associated with his farm. The first, in 2006, involved six people contracting E. coli. Subsequent outbreaks in 2007, 2011, 2012, 2016, and a significant one between 2023 and 2024 involving over 170 salmonella cases have been connected to his operations.
Despite the risks, McAfee developed standards for safer raw dairy production and continues to uphold consumer stories as valid within their experience. Yet, perceptions of raw milk’s safety remain contentious due in part to regulatory practices and public skepticism.
A critical point of concern was McAfee’s cheesemaking practices. Pathogen-contaminated milk was often used for cheese, contrary to scientific findings. Federal authorities had directed McAfee to cease producing cheese from such milk, though delays in legal proceedings forestalled enforcement until political changes occurred.
“They have the guns and the money. I got the truth and the moms.”– McAfee on federal authority
The farm focused on consumer education and marketing via online influencers. This effort successfully countered regulatory scrutiny, leading to dropped legal actions against the farm. McAfee emphasized engaging in a separate ‘war’ that was strategic and consumer-focused.
Despite another E. coli outbreak linked to his products, McAfee remains adamant about the safety of his practices. Yet, many young children were affected, prompting questions about the safety measures in place.
The FDA’s investigation concluded without further action, and McAfee’s products returned to the market. McAfee’s story underlines broader debates on raw milk’s place in American health and agriculture policy.