During the final decades of imperial China, Empress Dowager Cixi experienced a curious incident involving a pastry dream that left a lasting mark. After dreaming of a specific treat, it was served to her at breakfast. Thrilled by this coincidence, she rewarded the chef with a silver ingot. Originally named ‘minced pork pancake,’ it gained the title ‘dream pastry’ due to its association with the empress’s dream. According to Zhou Tong, a chef at Fangshan Restaurant in Beijing, this story illustrates the enchanting nature of imperial cuisine.

Fangshan Restaurant specializes in preserving and showcasing dishes like Cixi’s dream pastry, along with other culinary traditions from China’s imperial courts. Established in 1925, it was founded by former Qing Dynasty chefs and is situated at Beihai Park, a historical site frequented by royals for various ceremonial and administrative activities. Di Xin, the assistant general manager of Fangshan, notes that the name Fangshan means ‘imitating the imperial cuisine.’

Several Beijing restaurants, including Fangshan, offer interpretations of imperial cuisine, echoing the flavors of the past. At the Palace Museum, Qing-dynasty dining history can be explored through objects like pastry molds.

Imperial Meals and Their Rituals

Imperial cuisine comprised daily meals for emperors and festive banquets for their courts. Each meal adhered to specific rituals, underlining the significance of traditional customs. For instance, drinking milk tea was a customary start at Qing-dynasty banquets, as noted by Teng Deyong, a scholar at China’s Palace Museum. During these banquets, emperors would offer wine or food to princes and officials, who would reciprocate with rites of gratitude before consuming.

Additionally, sacrificial rituals followed distinct practices. Teng highlights the consumption of sacrificial pork at the Palace of Earthly Tranquillity, considered a significant Qing court ritual. After boiling fatty pork without salt, it was distributed among guests, signifying honor. This notion of unseasoned food aligns with earlier Chinese ceremonial traditions, as described in the ‘Book of Rites.’

Wandi Wang, a professor at Lehigh University, notes that the unseasoned ‘grand stew’ symbolized simplicity, evoking an ancient cooking philosophy that honored cultural origins through minimalism.

The Art of Imperial Pastry-Making

Pastries played a vital role in imperial cuisine. Master chef Zhou at Fangshan continues this tradition with Cixi’s dream pastry and steamed corn buns, preserving recipes rooted in court heritage. Zhou shares stories to enrich customer experiences. Pastry-making techniques have been passed through generations, keeping traditions alive without modern appliances.

Handcrafting remains essential, with ingredients processed manually to maintain textures and flavors. Fangshan’s pea flour cake and red bean roll are popular among patrons, illustrating the enduring appeal of these delicacies.

Adapting Ancient Techniques

Fan Liangliang joined Fangshan as an apprentice, learning to adopt slower, imperial cooking methods rather than contemporary techniques. One such technique, ‘Nizihuo,’ involves creating decorative edible forms from minced ingredients, emphasizing innovation and presentation.

While rare ingredients like bear paws are omitted, adaptations ensure the spirit of original dishes perseveres. Fangshan’s cuisine combines Manchu and Han culinary traditions, blending cultural elements into a unified culinary experience. Stir-frying, braising, and stewing remain prevalent, despite modification due to ingredient availability or modern preferences.

Symbolism in Chinese Cuisine

Chinese cuisine embodies cultural values and political ideals. A poem by Du Fu transforms cold noodles with pagoda-tree leaves into a reflection of political loyalty, illustrating how food symbolizes broader societal ideas.

Professor Wang emphasizes the importance of respecting history in culinary preservation. Culinary heritage not only reveals past dining practices but also influences how society chooses to remember and honor them today.

Chef Fan expresses the hope that diners at Fangshan experience the depth of history beyond just a meal.

Note: This report was produced with contributions from AP video journalist Wu Jia and is supported in collaboration with The Conversation US, funded by Lilly Endowment Inc.