Democracy Dies in Darkness

Even the state’s well-known restaurants are facing challenges to stay open as expenses rise, with no foreseeable relief.

May 25, 2026 at 5:00 a.m. EDT

Houston: The Texas barbecue industry relies heavily on tracking costs, as seen in the spreadsheet managed by Russell Roegels. Recently, he examined the brisket price at a peaceful table in his suburban restaurant, revealing it to be $5.56 per pound. This is the cost of a critical staple on any Texas barbecue menu.

Texas barbecue is integral to the state’s culinary culture, but rising brisket costs are troubling. These increases are affecting even renowned eateries across the state, making it difficult to maintain operations without significant financial strain.

Russell Roegels, who runs Roegels Barbecue Co. in Houston, illustrates the broader industry trend using his brisket price ledger. The $5.56 per pound is a concerning figure for restaurant owners, given the brisket’s essential role in their offerings. With no signs of price reduction, Texas restaurant owners must navigate these economic pressures carefully.

The rising cost threatens the survival of businesses because brisket’s prominence ensures it’s in high demand and impacts pricing directly.

Restaurants, including Roegels, must make strategic decisions to cope with the cost surge without compromising service quality. The absence of price relief compels them to reassess their financial strategies continuously.