The film Tony is not just a biopic about Anthony Bourdain, but rather, it attempts to provide a fresh take on a coming-of-age story of a modern culinary figure. Directed and co-written by Matt Johnson, the story unfolds over a single summer. Unfortunately, it gives only a glimpse into Bourdain’s life, leaving the audience wanting more.
The plot centers on Bourdain’s transformational period in 1975 while working in a Cape Cod restaurant. Regrettably, Johnson takes creative liberties, resulting in a portrayal that doesn’t fully capture the charismatic Bourdain we came to admire through his travel shows such as Parts Unknown. This raises the question: why choose Bourdain as the focal point if the film doesn’t reflect his renowned persona?
Dominic Sessa plays the young Bourdain as a brooding figure, somewhat reminiscent of Bob Dylan. Yet the film falls short in capturing moments of joy or astonishment, such as the notable fishing frenzy Bourdain recalled in his memoir Kitchen Confidential. The story outlines his progression in the culinary world, while hinting at his first experiences with hard drugs.
The film starts with a quote from Kitchen Confidential, capturing Bourdain’s self-described past as a disoriented young man. It shows his evolution from a mere dishwasher to a novice cook handling shrimp cocktails, all within the rough-and-tumble kitchen atmosphere. His passion for cooking and unfortunate introduction to heroin are highlighted, yet his personal transformation remains underexplored.
The screenplay, developed by Johnson with Matthew Miller, Todd Bartels, and Lou Howe, attempts to spice up Bourdain’s awakening with fictional elements, including an exaggerated kitchen fire and a fabricated mentor played by Antonio Banderas. This mentor encourages Bourdain, yet Banderas’ portrayal falls short of the character described in Bourdain’s memoir.
The disconnect grows as the film neglects Bourdain’s deep-seated love and zeal for food culture. Despite drawing from Bourdain’s expressive descriptions, such as his first oyster tasting, the film lacks the inspiring portrayal of food’s impact and allure.
Sessa, actor Emilia Jones, and a cameo by chef Eric Ripert add brighter notes, alongside Leo Woodall’s engaging performance as Bourdain’s contemporary and friend, Sal.
Like recent biopic trends that explore specific life chapters, Tony attempts to focus on a crucial slice of Bourdain’s life. However, it doesn’t succeed as a compelling origin story. The narrative doesn’t capture the essence that lifted Bourdain to global stardom.
Released by A24, Tony is rated R by the Motion Picture Association for strong language, drug use, and sexual content. It runs for 106 minutes, earning two out of four stars for its attempts but ultimate shortfalls.